Itinerary 2 From the Castle to the Palace (Parts 1 and 2)
a) Map of the first part of Itinerary 2. The second part is here.
The High Street (taking in the alleyways and closes to Warriston Close)
Places to Visit ON the High Street (from the Castle down to Holyrood Palace).
Tripadvisor puts it pretty well: “Few Edinburghers live in the Old Town, but its labyrinth of dank alleys and steep streets suggests this was not always the case. Today, it’s mostly visitors, tartan-flavoured souvenir shops, expensive cashmere outlets and bagpipers that you’ll find on its cobbled streets.
Still, this is the place to get a feel for Auld Reekie (Old Smelly), as the town was once nicknamed, and stroll the Royal Mile, the thoroughfare that links the castle with the royal palace – two of Edinburgh’s great set-piece attractions. But there’s lots more exploring to do here down dozens of little alleys, or wynds.
Visits that You have to Pay For
I have put Tripadvisor scores for the main attractions. As a rule of thumb, 3.5 to 4 means “good enough” and anything above 4 to 4.4 means “better than good”. A score of 4.5 or more is “even better”.
The Castle (and Holyrood Palace): The castle (4.4 on Tripadvisor) involves a great deal of Medieval armour, memorabilia from the Napoleonic Wars and the like. It takes quite a long time to visit but the visit does offer fantastic views of Edinburgh. But then again, you can also get the same views from the Esplanade. The cost is around £70 for two adults and two children.
Entrance tickets to the Castle and Holyrood Palace are included in the bus tour below and so, if you want to visit the Castle and Holyrood Palace opt for a bus tour that includes the two. You will make a slight saving but count £232 for two adults and two children:
Here is a link to the Castle’s ticketing section on the official website:
https://tickets.historic-scotland.gov.uk/webstore/shop/viewItems.aspx?cg=TKTS&c=GA#428279
Camera Obscura (4.6 on Tripadvisor): Worth a visit (and considerably better for children than Dynamic Earth). The camera obscura is fun in itself and the museum has a lot of amusing things for kids in particular (and all those that are young at heart). But count on £83 for 2 adults and 2 children. If you combine this with a visit to just the Planetarium at Dynamic Earth, count another £30.
(CHEAP) Gladstone Land: (4.5 on Tripadvisor) One of the oldest buildings on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile and one of the cheaper attractions. Two adults and two children will cost about £27.
https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/gladstones-land
The Real Mary King’s Close: (4.4 on Tripadvisor) Experience history through the eyes of the people who lived it. The Real Mary King’s Close is hidden beneath the characteristic and lively streets of Edinburgh’s busiest thoroughfare – The Royal Mile. Count about £83 for 2 adults and 2 children.
Underground Vaults Terror Tour: (4.7 on Tripavisor) in the genre of gothic (horror) Edinburgh. Not accessible to children under 17. Count £48 for two adults.
The Edinburgh Dungeon: (4.4 on Tripavisor) also in the genre of gothic (horror) Edinburgh. If you have children who are likely to enjoy the gruesome aspects, perhaps worth a visit. (I have not been). Count £78 for two adults and two children.
The Alleys, Wynds, Closes and Courts (FREE)
Whilst the High Street/ Royal Mile is a must see, despite the massed tourists, if you want to get away from the crowd, take a detour via the closes. Closes were “closed” and so the gate allowing entrance could be locked at night. They give a great idea of Edinburgh life in the seventeenth century and before. A real trip back in time and, of course, it is all free.
Here’s a pretty comprehensive description:
https://www.mdhardingtravelphotography.com/post/2019/09/25/edinburghs-old-town-close
If not, the following gives a shortened version of the main attractions in so far as closes are concerned:
a) Walking down the hill from Castlehill, go past the roundabout with Upper Bow (going down to Victoria Terrace) and then turn left to make you way from James Court to Lady Stair’s Close and from there to Wardrop’s Close.
James Court
Lady Stairs Close
The Scottish Writers’ Museum is also free and is found off Lady Stair’s Close, which is worth a look in itself.
https://www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk/venue/writers-museum
To get to Wardrop’s Court, find the tree beside the orange and red wall. You will see the Court from there.
Wardrop’s Court
b) From Wardrop’s Close go back to the Lawnmarket on the High Street and have a look at Gladstone Land (and maybe consider visiting: it is relatively cheap as Edinburgh visits go). Gladstone Land: One of the oldest buildings on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. Two adults and two children will cost about £27. https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/gladstones-land
Gladstone Land (beside “Olde Edinburgh”) (4.5 on Tripadvisor)
d) Then visit Brodie’s Close and Riddles Court.
In the genre of Gothic Edinburgh, you might want to read up on the story of the double life led by the infamous Deacon Brodie.
Brodie’s Close
Riddle’s Court
e) This might be a chance for a brief detour to visit the Museum on the Mound
Careful, it is only open between 13.00 and 17.00.
f) Then head back onto the Lawnmarket and take the opportunity to visit St Giles’ Cathedral.
The Cathedral is open during the day (from 10 to 6) free of charge. In addition, at 10.30 am or 2.30 pm there is a short walking tours of St Giles’ Cathedral. These tours are free, and will last around 45 minutes. Booking is essential. You can book a slot immediately below. Click on the picture for the tour you would like to reserve for
Every Scottish school child will know who Jenny Geddes is. At the end of the tour, you will have an idea of who she was as well. You will also have been given some historical information about the Reformation in Scotland, transforming the destiny of Scotland as a nation.
You can also set up an audio tour at the reception desk. They will put the tour on your phone.
Getting Lunch on or just off the High Street
The Larder gets a 4.6 on Tripadvisor and Google Maps and is reasonably priced (including offering a cheap kids’ menu). You will find the menus here:
Luckenbooths (4 on Tripadvisor, 4.6 on Google Maps)
The Mitre is rather a pleasant bar with restaurant seating at the back. It gets 4.0 on Tripadvisor and the food is typical British pub food (that is not all that cheap). You will find a menu here:
Second Part of Itinerary 2 (High Street and Canongate)
After that, have a look at Advocate’s Close for the view from the top but go down Roxburgh Close and find the Alleyway that leads to Warriston Close. Follow that down to Cockburn Street. Then go on to the second part of Itinerary 2 (below).
Once on Cockburn Street (which used to be a street of “alternative shops” a little like Campden Market in London) but has since gentrified.
Here is some history:
https://www.edinburghexpert.com/blog/a-brief-history-of-cockburn-street-edinburgh
Walk up the hill until you see Anchor Close on your right:
Once you are on the High Street again, see if you can find the statues of David Hume (the greatest Scottish philosopher and a profound influence on British empiricism) or the statue of Adam Smith (the greatest Scottish economist). Rubbing David Hume’s toe is said to bring luck.
Adam Smith and David Hume are both emblematic of the remarkable Scottish Enlightenment of the 18th Century (as is the architecture of the New Town)
Once you have found these two statues, go back down the hill until you come to John Knox’s House. Here you will be back in the Reformation rather than the Enlightenment.
(CHEAP) John Knox’s House is just down from Tweedale Court. Once you have seen the picture above, you will not be able to miss it. In fact, it is not at all certain that Knox – who brought the successful Calvinist Reformation to Scotland – actually lived here for any considerable amount of time. However, it is an interesting example of an early modern period house and is reasonably priced for the visit. Count £17 for two adults and two children.
Then go down St Mary’s Street until you come to Boyd’s Entry and follow it around through Chessel’s Court until you get back to the Canongate/ High Street.
Before you come to the end of this itinerary, there are two more closes to see:
Bakehouse Close
Here is some historical background:
https://hiddenscotland.com/listings/bakehouse-close
White Horse Close
The entrance to White Horse Close
Some history:
https://hiddenscotland.com/listings/white-horse-close
(FREE) The Scottish Parliament:
You are welcome to visit the building any time it’s open free of any cost. You do not need to book. Explore the public areas, take a guided tour, watch business taking place or see what’s on.
https://www.parliament.scot/visit/plan-your-visit
Hollyrood Palace: Good for those that enjoy Jacobean Renaissance Architecture (another example is George Heriot’s School) and all things related to fading aristocratic splendour. Count about £60 for two adults and two children. Entrance tickets to the Castle and Holyrood Palace are included in the bus tours.
If you plan to visit both The Castle and Holyrood palace, go for the Royal Edinburgh Card (and you will get a bus tour and the two visits for £232 for a family of two parents and two children.
https://edinburghtips.com/edinburgh-city-pass.html#1
Dynamic Earth: Despite a tripadviser score of 4.5, not really all that ambitious: fibreglass animals and landscapes a bit reminiscent of old science fiction films. Lots of written information aiming at a primary school audience and a bit light on “experiences”. Large screen exhibits and the planetarium are the best part.
It is possible to just book for the planetarium. For two adults and two children, the full visit costs £63, which puts the visit on the cheaper end of the spectrum for paid visits. Entrance to just the Planetarium is £30 for two adults and two children aged 5 and over. Worth going with young children, no doubt, but if you had to choose, the Camera Obscura museum is better.
Getting Something to Eat (Holyrood and Dynamic Earth)
Dynamic Earth has a free to access café that is reasonably priced:
Café Opening Hours: 10am-6pm (Last Orders: 5.30pm)
Hot Food for lunch Served Between 12pm-3pm
This will give you the menu:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fdynamicearth.org.uk%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2023%2F04%2Fdynamic-earth-cafe-A4-Menu.pdf&psig=AOvVaw22IApmIVDauw_hXI8KD7VW&ust=1746986241761000&source=images&cd=vfe&opi=89978449&ved=0CAQQn5wMahcKEwiA9-OuvpmNAxUAAAAAHQAAAAAQBA
If not you could always try the Tolboth Tavern (just about reasonable prices)
https://www.tolboothtavern.co.uk
Children are admitted (until 22.00 apparently!) and so no problem about bringing children in for lunch.